On a warm, clear Saturday morning I donned my riding gear and set off for the historic town of Goliad in SW Texas, a little over 150miles (240kms) from Houston. I had first come across Goliad in James Mitchener's epic "Texas." It was a town with an infamous past as well as some important historical buildings. And to be honest, I needed an excuse to get on my Trumpie and go for a ride. Gayle was well into her first seminar of her Masters program, and a quiet house without me rattling around allowed her to put in some valuable study time.59 South is a big, fast freeway out through Sugarland, Richmond and Rosenberg before getting into farming country. Crossing an overpass on the southern outskirts of Rosenberg I saw a beautiful sight, a reasonably good sized cemetery in full floral colour, every grave stone adorned with flowers. From a distance, it was something to behold. Unfortunately, I was travelling a bit too quick to stop and as there was no where to turn around the opportunity to take what would have been a wonderful photo was lost. I had no idea what the flowers were all about until I stopped for gas and a bite to eat at the country town of El Campo - what a brilliant name. There at the Shell gas station two
WWII veterans were selling raffle tickets to raise funds for their association. How could I resist these cheery old men, I bought $5 worth, feeling sure I'd be riding out to the town in a week or so to claim my prize/s. Alas, no luck. But it dawned on me that later in the week was Veterans Day, or as I grew up knowing it, Armistice Day, the 11th Nov.
WWII veterans were selling raffle tickets to raise funds for their association. How could I resist these cheery old men, I bought $5 worth, feeling sure I'd be riding out to the town in a week or so to claim my prize/s. Alas, no luck. But it dawned on me that later in the week was Veterans Day, or as I grew up knowing it, Armistice Day, the 11th Nov.From El Campo it's an easy and interesting ride to Goliad through flat cultivated land, with some wonderful old and abandoned farm houses and buildings. Whenever I see these places I wonder, w
ho built that? Who lived there? Where are those families now and what are their stories? As with much of modern agriculture, the small family farms have become unsustainable, swallowed up by larger operations. The tragedy of economics - history, tradition, and family connections to the land mean nothing unless a profit is being made.
Earlier this year along with Gayle, my son Tristan and his girlfriend, Beth, I had visited The Alamo in San Antonio, a low point in the state's military history. As brave as the Texans may have been, they were completely out-numbered and out-gunned at The Alamo. It was a disaster for Texan's aspirations for a nation free of Mexican control, nothing less, but it became a symbol of heroism, defiance and independence that has to this day characterised Texas and her people. The bumper sticker seen on nearly every second vehicle in the state, "Don't Mess With Texas" seems to say it all.
ho built that? Who lived there? Where are those families now and what are their stories? As with much of modern agriculture, the small family farms have become unsustainable, swallowed up by larger operations. The tragedy of economics - history, tradition, and family connections to the land mean nothing unless a profit is being made.Earlier this year along with Gayle, my son Tristan and his girlfriend, Beth, I had visited The Alamo in San Antonio, a low point in the state's military history. As brave as the Texans may have been, they were completely out-numbered and out-gunned at The Alamo. It was a disaster for Texan's aspirations for a nation free of Mexican control, nothing less, but it became a symbol of heroism, defiance and independence that has to this day characterised Texas and her people. The bumper sticker seen on nearly every second vehicle in the state, "Don't Mess With Texas" seems to say it all.
Goliad, another defeat at the hands of the Mexican army, was even more tragic. At The Battle of Coleto the Texans, under the command of Col. James Fannin had, in the face of over whelming odds, laid down th
eir arms and surrendered. For nearly a week they were held captive within the walls of Presidio La Bahia before orders came from Santa Ana that the Texans were not prisoners of war but pirates, to be treated as such and executed immediately. Although he had beaten the Texans at The Alamo his victory had been a costly one, now he would exact his revenge. Despite fervent pleadings from Gen. Jose De Urrea to spare the lives of his prisoners, on the 27th Mar. 1836 over 340 Texan revolutionaries were marched out of the Presidio and shot. It thus became known as The Goliad Massacre. Less than a month later Santa Ana would be defeated at San Jacinto by Gen. Sam Houston. After years of struggle Texas was at last a free independent nation.
eir arms and surrendered. For nearly a week they were held captive within the walls of Presidio La Bahia before orders came from Santa Ana that the Texans were not prisoners of war but pirates, to be treated as such and executed immediately. Although he had beaten the Texans at The Alamo his victory had been a costly one, now he would exact his revenge. Despite fervent pleadings from Gen. Jose De Urrea to spare the lives of his prisoners, on the 27th Mar. 1836 over 340 Texan revolutionaries were marched out of the Presidio and shot. It thus became known as The Goliad Massacre. Less than a month later Santa Ana would be defeated at San Jacinto by Gen. Sam Houston. After years of struggle Texas was at last a free independent nation.I rode into the historic district of Goliad a little after mid day, it was time for a meal. Thank 
goodness there are no fast-food places or chain restaurants in the square. I did a walk around to see what my options were, finally settling on The Empressario. A full restaurant is a dead give away, the food must be good and servings must be generous, country folk are sure to know the best place in town. I was not disappointed, for less than $10 I had a hearty meal, more than enough to keep this ol' soldier marching for the rest of the day. In a recent edition of Ride Texas (Jan. 2010), the Empressario was recommended as a good place to eat, I fully concur.
goodness there are no fast-food places or chain restaurants in the square. I did a walk around to see what my options were, finally settling on The Empressario. A full restaurant is a dead give away, the food must be good and servings must be generous, country folk are sure to know the best place in town. I was not disappointed, for less than $10 I had a hearty meal, more than enough to keep this ol' soldier marching for the rest of the day. In a recent edition of Ride Texas (Jan. 2010), the Empressario was recommended as a good place to eat, I fully concur.
Dominating the square since 1894 is the Goliad County Courthouse, an impressive building by any standard. Swift and often harsh justice was dispensed within the Courthouse, many a p
oor soul went to meet their Maker at the end of a rope swinging from the Hanging Tree just outside. Times were tough back then, the Texas Rangers, sent to establish law and order during the Cart War of 1857, were ruthless in carrying out their duties. Life in the early days of Texas was not for the faint hearted, especially if you got on the wrong side of the law. Today Texas has this great and colourful legacy, an independent spirit that seems to say to the world "We're doing it our way, keep your nose out of our affairs."
After a browse through a couple of antique shops and an art/craft shop it was on to the Mission and the Presidio, both located a few minutes out of town. First stop was the Mission Nuestra Senora Del Espiritu Santo De Zuniga, built in 1749. Quite a m
outhful for a church, but what stunning building it is, recently re-whitewashed, it almost shone in the afternoon sun, a gleaming white contrasted against the rich green of the nearby oaks. I read in a brochure, I now cannot find, that this Mission is the last remaining fully intact building of its kind in Texas. The interior, while very Catholic with its religious icons and symbolism, is beautifully preserved. Just a little further up the road is the Presidio La Bahia. I arrived to watch the last 30 mins. of a military re-enactment, about 20 or so participants in full uniforms, guns and cannons, camps, etc. It gave me a perspective of the nearby Battle of Coleto where Fannin and his Texan troops were defeated and surrendered to the Mexican Army led by De Urrea. The Presidio has a small but extremely interesting museum as well as a mini theatre showing a film that tells the story of the events that put Goliad into the annuls of Texas history.
It was time to start thinking about getting on home. After topping up the gas tank I headed north on Hwy 183, through some rolling cattle country to Cuero, Hallettsville then up to Schulenburg on 77. A very nice strawberry milkshake at the local Dairy Queen and it was on to I10 East for home.
Total Distance: 345 miles (552kms)
You have a way of making Texas history very interesting. Aren't you glad you have a travel blog!
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